March 5, 2009

The Tea Maidens / Les faiseuses de thé

19800101_IMG_4565 The early risers, the stragglers from the first prayers, and the wandering rickshaw drivers are the few who have privilege-of-witness to the renowned rites of Sudan’s cult of tea. Each morning, as the crackle of charcoal and sandalwood overtakes the ominous void of motionless streets, the “tea-maidens” (the priestesses with omnipotent facilities in their craft) prepare their alters. Aluminum stoves aside various basins of water; one for cleaning, one for rinsing, and one for source of water. Each adorned with fine Ethiopian cloth strategic to both their masterful incarnations of femininity (a necessity for their competitive edge), as well in pleasant compliment to each familial facial tattoo mostly originating from the south-western tribes of Ethiopia. There are two principle reasons for why a generally shared commonality amongst the “maidens” national origin. The first is the convenience and general safety in such a profession to be sympathetically ignored for it’s necessary work permits (and even resident permits), while the second, often overlooked factor, is their traditional training in the Ethiopian coffee (buna) ceremony which gives both grace, dexterity, technicality, expertise of taste and consistency, as well as great pride to the preparation of beverages of which there is no equivalent culturally in Sudan (COMING SOON: a blog detailing the Ethiopian coffee ceremony).

Under a broad tree is best, for shade as well as symbolic backdrop. The decorative serving table, drapes in cloths and beads, is set at center of the outlined woven stools. Placed where the men can watch the maidens in respectful distance and coyest admiration. Like the delicate fans of Asia, she teases the flame to tame embers while concocting her personal brew with the opposite hand. Each colorful jar holds its own need and intended personality. Be it cinnamon, cardamom, ginseng, ginger, or cloves, each forms perfectly with either tea or coffee, softly strained by hand into glasses mostly full already with white sugar. You can have karkade (hibiscus blossoms), or milk concoctions with tea or milk. Each corner of every town has a maiden ready to satisfy your every needs. The special maidens, those who men would pass ten other maidens to stand and await a place beside, they might offer you a fluffy assortment of zalabia (small Sudanese doughnuts) to settle your salivation between glasses in particularly muggy weather. With such tremendous power and prestige, don’t expect a smiling face or even responsive stare. These are the professional street maidens of Sudan, and they have lots of men to attend to.

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Tous les matins le Soudan se réveille au son des crépitements de charbon rougissant. Les faiseuses de thé envahissent alors les rues à peine éclairées. Equipée d'une petite dinette et de tabourets souvent faits de fils, chacune s'installe à sa place, toujours au même endroit, sous un arbre ou devant un immeuble, quartier général des hommes d'affaire du quartier. Ces femmes viennent pour la plupart d'Ethiopie, pays réputé pour son café. IMG_5179Une fois les petits pots remplis d'épice et le sceau plein de sucre installés sur la petite table, l'eau est mise sur le feu. Il faut alors attiser les braises au plus vite.  Chaque marchande à sa propre recette, parfaite combinaison de parfums et d'épices, poudre de gingembre, ginseng, cardamome ou clou de girofle. Certaines ont des clients exigeants et préparent la mixture sur mesure. L'eau bouillonnante passe alors dans la petite passoire en plastique abritant le mélange de thé et d'épices, le liquide ambre se diffuse alors dans le verre translucide. Le récipient utilisé pour faire le café est tout le temps une boite de conserve devenue casserole. Consommer le thé ou le café sans sucre est un sacrilège, un tiers du verre est ici la norme. Il est possible d'ajouter un peu de lait toujours servi en poudre, ici les vaches sont rares et la chaleur déjà trop intense. Quelques dissidents préfèrent le karkadé, une infusion rouge sang de fleurs d'hibiscus. Certaines préparent aussi des petits beignets frits dans l'huile nommé zalabia, plaisir des seules lèves - tôt susceptibles de profiter de ce délice matinal.